Random lace cowl

This pattern is inspired by the Random Lace Scarf by Sybil R, but with one important difference: The random lace cowl is not knitted at random, but after a planned pattern.

IMG_20160808_163105_medium2Random knitting demands that you constantly count your stitches, and for a good result you should probably also be fairly consistent throughout your project regarding approximately how many stitches you use of each type on each rnd. This proved to be way too demanding for me, so the easier option was to create a pattern that look random, but without being random. It was also important to me that the pattern is not very difficult to remember, since constantly looking at the pattern slows down the knitting.

I used scrap yarn for this project, Kauni variegated yarn in yellow, orange and red. The colors alone could keep you warm during the winter, and I have also tried to make some flame like structures in the pattern. I guess it is a little too much, it sort of reminds me of flame laquered cars from the 80’s, but it was a fun project.




Table runner in basket weave stitch

Another scrap yarn project, just to test a couple of new techniques.

(None of these are for beginners, at least all the techniques are new to me, and being a tech nerd, I therefore guess that they are new to most knitters. The explanation below may therefore be a little difficult to follow. If you have trouble, I recommend that you google the techniques to find simple tutorials.)

Cast on 8 sts on dpns (use large needles compared to what you would normally do for the yarn you are using). Start making a magic circle cast on. After a couple of rnds this can be tightened so that there’s no hole in the middle.

Divide the work into 4 parts (with 1 st each) and 4 corner sts, and continue to knit in basket weave stitch. Knit the first rnd.

Increase 1 st in the start and end of every one of the 4 parts on each rnd. Take care so that this doesn’t mess up the pattern.

Basket weave st is formed by 2 alternating rnds. In the first rnd knit the 2nd of 2 sts from behind, then the first, and slip both off the needle. In the second rnd, knit the second st from the front, then the first st, and slip both sts off the needle.

IMG_20160714_124329Continue until you reach the desired size or there’s no more yarn left.

The edge is based on the Ten stitch blanket by Frankie Brown. The edge is knitted in garter st. Cast on 10 sts on a separate needle, and start in the middle of one of the sides, from the back side of the work. For each row slip the last st, pick up one st from the side of the runner, and pass the slipped st over the picked up st. The corners are formed using short rows, wraps and turns, and to finish it off, the gap in the side is closed using kitchener stitch.


Tubular scarf in mesh


This is a great project for scrap yarn. As you will know by now I aim to use all my scraps for a good purpose.

The scarf can be made in every width or length you like, depending on how much yarn you have.

It is possible to make the scarf in all kinds of materials, the one above is in cotton linen mix and the one below is in pure wool.

IMG_20160621_123720 hhh

The tuquoise scarf has garter st edgings, but if you want it more open, like the beige one, make it with double edge stitches instead.

I have made the turquoise scarf without a twist, but if you want an infinity scarf, like the beige one, you just twist it once before you kitchener it together.



Bolero made to fit. It can be used both with casual clothes and with a dress.

The bolero is worked bottom up, with raglan inset sleeves and mini cables both in the ribbing and in the raglan parts.

The yarn is a mix between wool and cotton.
The pattern was published in Allers in the end of July 2016. Pattern in english and norwegian is available through Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/7-bolero-2.




The 7 day dress pattern is ready

Finally the pattern is ready for sale. It is available in english and norwegian, and in addition to the dress and accessories pattern there are also patterns for a skirt and 2 tops in different lengths.

Read more about the dress in an earlier blog post here: https://skattensdiy.wordpress.com/2016/03/26/the-7-day-dress/

Buy pattern here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/5-the-7-day-dress

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There is no reason to limit yourself to making flat objects. I think these spheres will eventually become lamps, but for now they are just part of an experiment hosting plants that grow without soil. A pattern of sorts is written below the picture.


Cast on 16 sts on dpn’s. K 1 rnd stockinette st. Increase to 32 sts on rnd 3. K 3 rnds stockinette st. K mesh pattern over 4 rnds 8 times. (See below.) K 3 rnds stockinette st. Decrease to 16 sts on next rnd. K 1 rnd stockinette st. Decrease to 8 sts on next rnd. Pull yarn through all sts and pull yarn end. Weave in loose ends.

Mesh pattern: Rnd 1 *yo k2tog*. Repeat. Rnd 2 stockinette st. Rnd 3 *slip 1 st, k 1 st, psso, yo*. Rnd 4 stockinette st.

Use balloons to shape, add glue, let dry, repeat if needed.


Linen tops

When you buy yarn abroad, it is only natural that you buy more than you need. So I did. And I don’t like anything go to waste or stay unused, so I made a couple of tops from the leftover yarn from the linen dress (see below).

One of the tops is reversible and has exposed seams and the other has mesh on the shoulders in a contrasting yarn.

The tops are made in the same gauge and measures as the linen dress, and are fitted to my excact size. Both tops weigh around 200 grams.

I have tried to describe how the tops are constructed, and hope the descriptions of techniques below can be of some help. I really recommend googling some of these techniques if you don’t know them from before.


Top with exposed seamsIMG_20160621_123425

The tank top with exposed seams is knit in reverse stockinette stitch, with a bottom edge in garter stitch.

It is knit from the bottom up, and in 4 pieces. The top is fitted, with decreases and increases in the sides of every one of the pieces it is made from.

The edges of each piece are made with a double edge stitch, so that they stand out clearly, but still are neat and firm. The pieces are sewn together with mattress stitch. The shoulder seams are sewn with kitchener stitch, and these seams are invisible.

I have used sloped bindoff under the arms and around the neckline, so that the lines are totally smooth. There is no extra edging neither around the arms or the neck, since it is unessecary.

All ends are fastened inside the exposed seams, so that they are invisible on both the inside and outside. As you may have noticed, I like to have my options open and to save myself from extra work, so if anything can be used more than one way, I am really happy with it.

The top can therefore be worn with the seams on the outside (as originally intended), but it can also be turned inside out. The inside is in stockinette stitch, and has a bottom garter stitch edge. This is quite neat, but a little boring I think. 

The top is also quite cool when worn with the back and front sides swapped, for a night on the town this would be my preferred way to wear it.

Top with mesh

The tank top with mesh on the shoulders was an idea I got when I pulled out my sun hat from last year. I had some scrap yarn left from this hat project that I thought would look good together with the pure linen yarn.

The scraps are 50 % linen and 50 % cotton in a beige/white mixed color. (This yarn is Drops Bomull-Lin, but I have divided the 4 ply yarn into 4 singles, and I used a single for the top.)

To avoid that the bottom of this top rolls up, I have used a rib stitch pattern consisting of k 3, p 1.

Then I switched to stockinette st, but let the ribbing run through to the armholes.

All edges are knit with double edge st to keep them firm. This is especially important for the mesh part, since the yarn is really thin. It would probably sag if another edge stitch technique was used, since the linen yarn is fairly heavy compared to the cotton-linen mix yarn.IMG_20160621_123206 (1)kojpioj

I used sloped bindoff on this top too, and after rounding off under the arms, I switched yarn, needles and pattern.

On the last picture it is possible to see the rib pattern in the side.

This top can also be worn with the back side in front.

The mesh pattern is quite simple, and you can of course use any mesh pattern as long as it doesn’t have a lopside to it. It is possible to knit the mesh pattern in two parts, but since I had already made the other top, and knew the measures well, I knit it in one piece from the back and all the way to the front, where I kitchenered it together with the linen.